Perhentian Islands Guide: Which Island, When and How

The Perhentian Islands sit about 20 kilometres off the coast of Terengganu, two forested islands ringed by white sand and reef. There are no roads or cars, just footpaths through the jungle, water taxis between bays and a handful of resorts and wooden chalets. People come for the simple pleasures: snorkelling straight off the beach, cheap dive courses, fresh grilled fish at sunset and days with nothing on the schedule.

This guide covers which island to choose, the best time to visit the Perhentian Islands, how to get there and what to budget for.

Perhentian Islands at a glance: Kecil or Besar

Perhentian Kecil (small island) is the backpacker and diver favourite. Its main beach, Long Beach, has a long strip of sand on the east coast, dive shops, cafés and a lively evening scene. Coral Bay on the west side is a short walk away through the trees, smaller and calmer, and a good spot for sunset.

Perhentian Besar (big island) is quieter and better suited to families and couples. Its west coast is a chain of small bays facing Kecil, with calm water and resorts that have their own restaurants. Teluk Dalam on the south coast is a sheltered, shallow bay that works well with young children.

The channel between the two islands is narrow, and water taxis link the main beaches in a few minutes. Many travellers base themselves on one island and spend a day on the other.

Top things to do

Snorkelling

The reefs start just metres from many beaches. On Besar, the bays along the west coast and the rocky headlands between them have good coral and fish close to shore. Half-day and full-day snorkelling trips stop at several sites in one outing, usually including a turtle spot, a blacktip reef shark area and the lighthouse rocks off Kecil. Bring a rash vest or reef-safe sunscreen, and never stand on coral.

Diving and dive courses

The Perhentians are one of the most popular places in Malaysia to learn to dive, with plenty of schools on Long Beach and on Besar. Courses take three to four days. Well-known sites include Tokong Laut (Temple of the Sea), a pinnacle with soft corals and schooling fish, and the Sugar Wreck, a sunken cargo ship. Visibility is usually best from around May to August.

Jungle walks between bays

Marked trails cross both islands. On Kecil, the walk from Long Beach to Coral Bay takes 10 to 15 minutes, and longer paths lead to quieter bays and the fishing village on the south coast. Wear proper shoes rather than flip-flops, carry water and start early, as the trails are steep and humid by midday. You may meet monitor lizards along the way.

Kayaking and beach time

Kayaks can be rented on most beaches and are an easy way to reach small coves. Otherwise, the main activity is choosing a patch of sand, swimming and moving into the shade at noon. Evenings on Long Beach bring fire shows and beach barbecues, while Besar stays quiet after dinner.

Best time to visit

The season runs from about March to October. Seas are calmest and visibility is usually best from around April to August, which is also when Malaysian school holidays and weekends push up prices and fill rooms. Book ahead for July and August.

From roughly November to February, the northeast monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas. Most resorts and scheduled boats stop, and while a few larger resorts and village services stay open, crossings can be cancelled with little warning. If you travel at the edges of the season (early March or late October), keep your plans flexible.

Getting there and getting around

All public boats leave from Kuala Besut, a fishing town on the Terengganu coast. Speedboats take around 30 to 45 minutes and drop you at your beach. Morning departures are the most reliable, so aim to be at the jetty by early afternoon at the latest.

The closest airport is in Kota Bharu, about an hour by road from the jetty, with frequent flights from KL. Many people spend a night there to try Kelantan food before or after the islands. Kuala Terengganu airport is the alternative, about two hours from Kuala Besut.

Before you board, you pay the marine park conservation charge set by the Department of Fisheries Malaysia: RM30 for adults and RM15 for children aged 6 to 12 and seniors without a MyKad at the time of writing. A small district council fee is collected separately.

On the islands, water taxis run between beaches and set fares are posted at most jetties. Short hops cost noticeably less than longer trips across to the far side of Besar, and solo travellers often pay the two-person rate.

Practical tips

• Bring cash. Do not rely on ATMs on the islands. Many chalets, dive shops and boatmen take cash only.
• Power and water. Electricity comes from generators, and some budget chalets only run air conditioning at night. Water supplies can be limited in peak season.
• Dress and alcohol. Swimwear is fine on the beach, but cover up when walking through the village or travelling on the mainland. Alcohol is available at some places on Kecil and at certain resorts, but it is limited and expensive.
• Book ahead in peak months. Long Beach and the best Besar resorts fill quickly in July, August and on public holidays.
• Protect the reef. Choose snorkel operators who brief guests, avoid feeding fish, and never touch turtles or coral.

How long to stay

Three to four nights is the sweet spot: enough for a snorkelling trip, a dive or two, a jungle walk and some genuine rest. Divers doing an open water course should allow five nights. Pair the Perhentians with Redang Island to the south for a contrast of resort and backpacker styles, or follow our 7-day East Coast islands itinerary. For more on the state, see our Terengganu guide, and compare options in the best islands in Malaysia.