Terengganu Travel Guide: Islands and the East Coast

This Terengganu travel guide starts with the islands, because that is why most people come. The state’s coastline faces the South China Sea, and offshore lie the Perhentian Islands and Redang Island, with white sand, coral reefs and turtles in water clearer than anything on the west coast. On the mainland, Terengganu is relaxed and strongly Malay, with fishing villages, handicraft workshops and a pleasant small capital.

Terengganu travel guide: the islands

The Perhentians, reached by speedboat from Kuala Besut in about 30 minutes, suit everyone from backpackers to families. Perhentian Kecil has the cheaper chalets and a younger crowd; Perhentian Besar is quieter with more comfortable resorts. Redang, reached from Shahbandar jetty in Kuala Terengganu or from Merang, is more resort-focused and popular for all-inclusive snorkelling packages.

Smaller islands include Lang Tengah, with a few upmarket resorts, Pulau Kapas off Marang for a simple, quiet escape, and Tenggol for experienced divers. Our best islands in Malaysia guide compares them, and the East Coast islands itinerary shows how to combine two in a week.

Kuala Terengganu

The capital sits at the mouth of the Terengganu River and deserves at least a day. Pasar Payang is the central market for local snacks, batik and songket. Kampung Cina, the small Chinatown, has restored shophouses and cafés along one main street. On Pulau Wan Man, in the river, the Crystal Mosque stands in the Islamic Civilisation Park alongside scale replicas of famous Islamic buildings; it is most striking lit up at night. Across the water, Pulau Duyong is known for its traditional wooden boatbuilders.

Inland and along the coast

Tasik Kenyir, west of the capital, is the largest man-made lake in Malaysia, with hundreds of forested islands, waterfalls and houseboat trips. South along the coast, Rantau Abang and the Setiu Wetlands are associated with turtle conservation, and the beaches around Marang and Kemasik are quiet and wide. The southern district of Kemaman borders Pahang near Cherating.

Food in Terengganu

The state snack is keropok lekor, chewy fish sausages served with chilli sauce, sold everywhere along the coast road. For breakfast, eat nasi dagang with tuna curry. Look out too for satar (spiced fish paste grilled in banana leaves) and laksam, thick rolled rice noodles in a rich fish and coconut gravy.

When to go and how long to stay

The north-east monsoon brings heavy rain and rough seas from around November to March, and most island resorts close from about November to February, with some shutting in mid-October. The best time to visit is March to October, with calm, clear water from April to September. Malaysian school holidays fill the islands, so book well ahead.

Allow at least 3 nights on one island, plus a day in Kuala Terengganu. Five to seven days lets you add a second island or Tasik Kenyir. Terengganu’s weekend runs Friday to Saturday, so some offices and shops close on Fridays.